Every year as the temperature drops, everyone begins to figure out how to "wrap it up as a zongzi" without losing its air. And the fur, naturally, is put on the table year after year.
Originally, because of its special raw materials, fur was once a controversial topic in the fashion industry. But like the debate between the vegetarian group and the omnivorous group, the controversy seems to exist forever and never has an answer.
In October this year, when much of the millennial generation touted the old fashion house replica Gucci bags uk also joined the ranks, in its announcement from the beginning of 2018, its products will be prohibited to use fur, fur of this topic once again become a frontier problem in fashion circles.
However, it is better to review the dramatic influence and change of the fur industry since we joined the debate force on the side.
The temperature of the fur
Although the appearance of clothing itself is of practical significance, there is probably no material that is more primitive and functional than fur. After all, it does not need to be produced or cut, but only in the routine of hunting.
Although the initial reason for human use fur have no exact records, but some historians speculated that human beings from the primitive man evolved into the modern people, because the man off the fur, not like around the animal, have thick fur to keep warm, especially in the earth's "ancient glacial period", the cold is a crisis of survival the real problem, resulting in primitive hunting realized, animal fur is the best material to keep out the cold.
Archaeologists discovered in primitive Paleolithic cave paintings that a lot of early human clothing signs were produced before and after the ancient glacial period. They were all made of animal fur. As a result, the people of the future naturally believe that "cold" is the most primitive motive of human being to put the fur on the body.
During the stone age, the primitives learned to use tools to cut the skins and sew them into clothes to cover the most important parts. The archaeologists found in the southwest of France's cultural relics Munster Wiese River, Middle Paleolithic, primitive people have learned to use a scraper to trim the triangular pieces, cut every kind of animal fur and clothing design, shows that 50 thousand years ago, the ancients Munster began with animal fur sewing clothes. It is even found that the beauty of human nature makes the fur of all kinds of animals more conducive to courtship and to attract the other's different costumes.
To the end of primitive society, with the development of society, people began to invent and use a variety of plant raw materials to make clothes, functional animal fur gradually is no longer the only choice for human, it is also the case, animal fur is endowed with more religious color, gradually became a obviously image rights game elements in.
In ancient Egypt, people in addition to advocating the linen fabric, is fond of have the rights of symbolic animal fur, the fur animal social status, instead, can be obtained from animal husbandry animal fur, especially wool, is considered not clean and cheap.
Fur from 3000 BC in ancient Egypt, was regarded as a symbol of power, then the kings often wear the cheetah or the lion's skin expression status and style of the king. Since eleventh Century, European princes and nobles, including fur minks, fox, chinchilla and other animal fur made of fur and scarves, show their social status.
When the 13 fourteenth Century, trade development finally makes fur has become a luxury industry, and the emergence of distinct standard class divisions, such as Germany, have a law, and only the elite sable mink to wear. France has a law showing that the middle class is not allowed to wear mink hair and blue squirrel fur.
Beginning in seventeenth Century, the development of the middle class and the weakening of European social strata made fur a dress that most of the middle class could wear, though the rank of fur was distinctive. During this period, the feudal society had come to the end of the period. Capitalism developed vigorously, the process of mechanization of production materials accelerated and the level of production increased significantly.
On this basis, fur clothing began to enter the large-scale production stage, fur processing and fur clothing production technology mature and professional, has a special fur garment processing field, and the scale is relatively large, from the first born to fur processing, trimming, processing and processing of sewing fur, fur apparel that the procedure can be completed in the factory. In this period, the fur industry began to form, and the scale and output have also been greatly improved.
In nineteenth Century, the development of science and technology, the cost of fur becomes cheaper, the public will choose cheap animal hair, such as rabbit and raccoon fur such as mink; but the senior and blue squirrel, because of scarce and manufacturing difficulty, has been valuable, the audience is always very rare.
After 1880s, many people like to sew the whole animal on their clothes, such as a fox's head and tail scarf. Some scientists think there are psychological reasons for it. When people wear animal fur, they can get the sense of original conquest and the satisfaction after hunting.
Since fashion formed an industry at the end of the nineteenth Century, many designers began to use fur as a luxury fabric. The earliest use of fur designer can be traced back to Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936) and Paul Poiret (1897-1944), the designer in the fall and winter seasons in the series are often used in fur, fur and soft after all, rare, as the raw material the most luxurious fashion, has become synonymous with luxury.
The major luxury department stores began to have fur departments. For example, Harrods in London had a large fur department, which bought various kinds of fur for the ladies in the centuries. During the 50s, Hollywood stars had to wear fur coats as long as they were in the winter. By 60s, fur has become a symbol of "fashion" for young people. Until now, many stars often express their fanaticism and support for fur. For example, Jennifer Lopez often appears on different occasions with various mink coats. There are also a lot of people in the fashion circle who are famous for their fur. Despite the constant criticism, there is no doubt that the relationship between the fur and the luxury has rarely been broken.
Questioning the growth of sound
After World War II, with the rapid recovery of European economy, the wealth of society has been increasing rapidly, and people's living standard has been remarkably improved, which is called "the age of plenty". Although the way people resist the cold winter is no longer restricted to fur, more packing budgets have pushed the fur to an unprecedented level.
However, people's demand for animal fur has increased rapidly, which has led many businesses to meet the market demand regardless of their needs, and kill animals and even rare animals without norms. Some wild animals are on the brink of extinction and animal fur resources are also increasingly scarce. After a lot of praise and popularity, the fur began to have a negative reputation.
In 1970s, social public opinion first set off activities against killing seals. After that, it also involved the cruelty of fur industry and exposed all kinds of darkness in the industry. The beginning of 80s, vigorously carry out anti fur campaign, many celebrities have joined the ranks, which is the most famous French national supermodel and actor Bridgitte Bardot, she regardless of the danger, to Canada to protect seals activities, and now she was always in the positive propaganda of anti fur campaign.
In 80s, many charitable organizations have joined the team, such as Greenpeace International (Greenpeace); the largest of which is established in 1980, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), PETA uses a more aggressive marketing tools, such as members of the Folk publicity in newspapers and magazines. The investigation discloses the fur industry, with many celebrities, with a naked advertising map, and "I" d rather be naked than wearing fur "slogan, to arouse public concern and sympathy.
This kind of propaganda campaign against fur has achieved great success in 80 and 90s. The amount of fur bought in Britain has dropped by 75% in 1985-1990 years and 5 years. Britain and most western countries established laws that did not allow the manufacture of fur in the 90s. A total of 45 countries in the world have jointly signed a treaty.
The vanguard of the fashion world
In 2001, the daughter of Paul McCartney, a member of the music idol Beatles band, set up a 100% luxury brand Stella McCartney, which is named after environmental protection and not using animal skins. At that time, although the sensation was great, the public still held the attitude of doubt. It was considered a gimmick. Many people said that she just used it as a propaganda means to speed up the throne and couldn't last long.
But over the past 16 years, Stella always stick to their principles, not only without any raw materials from animal fur, even her perfume is determined not by animal experiment, she has taken the lead in addition is a strict vegetarian, she is strict with her company purchasing department, only to buy farm animal welfare wool and silk, it is developing a variety of raw materials instead of animal fur, her shoes and bag although not by leather manufacturing, but the design and workmanship by people in fashion and luxury consumer favorite, so she also added to animal protection and environmental team.
Market research shows that millennial consumers' pursuit of Stella McCartney is not only a designer's identity, but also a self adhering and idol like positive image. Many designers, such as Calvin Klien, Marc Jacobs, Armani, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and so on, all joined the team.
Stella belongs to the Kering group, is committed to the development of contribution to environmental protection, and in May 2016, the report discloses real environmental protection, including animal fur, gold, rare animal skin procurement channels, Kering insist on buying only to treat the animal fur company, and vigorously develop the environmental protection material, under the Alexander McQueen began in 2013, the increasing use of environmental protection material, even the design and manufacture of the evening series, in order to promote even beautiful dress, can also be environmental protection material, without the use of animal material.
Of course, after all, this is just a beginning, just like the Kering company report said, this is a long-term strategy, the company hopes to Stella McCartney as the standard, and has 100% transparency to the public, in the hope to promote the fashion industry, make a contribution to environmental protection and animal protection.
"FURBIDDEN" or "FUREVER"
A permanently disputed topic
In October this year, replica Gucci bags uk joined the army against the fur, and public speaking, this is the moment to go along with the new millennium generation consumption concept, a lot of research, a series of environmental problems, including animal protection, is what they most concerned about a brand, they asked the company to give consumers 100% transparency, including procurement, manufacturing, logistics, and the entire process of the destruction of items, and can make a public commitment to protect animal and environment for consumers.
replica Gucci online uk CEO in the media interview said, consumers need to make the Millennium brand not only products, but a kind of spirit, they need the values of resonance, Gucci and Kering would, vigorously develop charity, for animal, environment and feminism, to support these actions prove that Gucci is the industry the leader, can resonate with consumers in the new era.
Of course, if fur is a conflict that can be terminated by a group or an event, it will not become an enduring topic. Just look at the fashion circle view stand is remarkable. On the one hand, more and more people to join the army and brand protection, tries to to the earth and the nature of the responsibility, on the other hand, there are voices that if from the environmental point of view, the synthesis of artificial fur will only have more pollution to the environment, the environmental pollution which is not man-made than killing animal noble.
There is even a sound in the emphasis on the regular source of fur is a humane approach to the death of the animal. For example, the global luxury industry's largest fur suppliers, Finland fur company Saga Furs said that the company adhere to the strict European fur law, to provide the best living environment for the animal, and humane way to get fur; in the treatment of fur, the company adhere to the environmental protection equipment.
So they don't think it's wrong to produce fur. Consumers and brands who support fur also believe that since most humans are carnivorous animals, there is no essential difference between raising animals to get food and making clothes with animals.
Of course, if in the development of fur, always can be protected by law and morality strictly, is indeed a great comfort, at least in the present situation, there are too many regions and businesses targeting the fur behind the huge profits, but the lack of strict legal constraints, so ruthless examples still exist.
In the London Fashion Week of September this year, there was a spontaneous anti fur campaign. It pointed out that many luxury brands did not strictly comply with European fur laws, and they never get fur from the standard channels. This is the question of chicken and eggs. Is it necessary for the fashion industry to take the lead in guiding consumers, or do consumers need to give pressure to the fashion industry to break the lawless fur acquisition and manufacturing chain?
When the cold winter arrived, the public seemed to have become accustomed to its seasonal appearance in spite of the seemingly innocent topic of fur. But it is undeniable that the ideology of the millennial generation is very different, and they have a stronger sense of collective resonance. The survey shows that the millennials are more concerned with social problems than those of their predecessors. They are concerned about future environmental problems, including equal treatment of animals. More and more millennials are joining vegetarianism.
In the future consumption of the main force under the Harrods in London and the eponymous two well-known large department stores, Liberty, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols are also competing to decide not to sell any fur Net a Porter/Yoox, the luxury goods business at the beginning of this year, said three of its website all refused to buy and sell fur. Even the most popular luxury brand of the millennial generation, cheap replica Gucci handbags UK, has joined the campaign against fur.
Human nature is all about beauty, and money will always encourage some people to buy rare and luxurious things. Maybe this is the desire that human beings can't change to dignitaries. But for the sake of beauty and luxury, this business ideology seems to have come to a crossroads with the change of consumers in the millennial era.
Should the fur return to the meaning of the ancient times - a symbol of power and power? Only a certain amount of fur is allowed to be produced every year. Businesses must strictly follow the law, buy fur in a standardized way, and set a high price to ensure the rare amount of fur, so as to satisfy and balance human nature and morality. It is not known whether FURBIDDEN or FUREVER will be on the fashion stage in the future.
But you can be sure that this winter, your wardrobe may still be occupied by hairy elements, but it can completely detached from the real animal fur. Perhaps, even if one day, when the real fur is far away from people's life, our aesthetics will still leave a special space for this hairy texture. The historical traces of fur and human walking together are hard to forget.
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