Fan said: the hidden food is more fun to eat.
(the | Wang Kai, authorized business scope issued)
At the weekend, fan fan read a book called "wave food", which not only makes people look hungry but also full of interesting and tender stories.
The author is the "Sanlian Life Weekly" New Media Editor, former senior director of the type of cultural
Wang Kai, travel all over the country food everywhere, from street stalls to the Northeast string line Paris Vietnamese restaurant, eat mutton from variety to the emperor's menu. Have a unique insight and experience for the delicacy, delicacy for the culture behind is more familiar.
What is more, this book also wrote around the world of all food, eat in Beijing street shops, the stranger in the night Izakaya drinkers, on a bowl of Hand-Pulled Noodle Soup with Beef remembrance and legend of Hongkong's most cultural waiter...
Every piece is full of human feelings. People who love food also understand life. This book of waves is worth reading.
Ling lie winter shivering to, is time to share a warm heart and stomach in the heart: "Beijing warm stray human stomach" ~ this article the delicate nature of taste to write ordinary food, and all the taste of Men's feelings are changeable. behind. The beauty of the food slips into your life from the words.
I am the dividing line - of -
In the past, Beijing was widely distributed in city villages, and Liu Zhenyun's novels were good at writing these corners.
The people in the village in the city gathered in different shuttle, deduction and dusty life, hiding in the shadows of the great city, Caravaggio is simply a few pens tick hiding in the dark at the most humble life picture.
It's not good or bad. A small restaurant is a livelihood. Henan people do noodle, Xinjiang people do pull strip noodles, Shanxi people have hard cutting daily -- it is not popular yet ugly cutting robot's..
In recent years, accelerating the transformation of Beijing City, the main city in the village in the city is less and less, blossom everywhere "Hangzhou dumplings" Shaxian County snack "and the origin of what did not belong to the basic relationship of shenglayingche relatives, embarrassed to exist, not belonging to the villagers villages in the food system exudes a warm dry gas.
Go to Hangzhou so many times, but only once eaten dumplings, visible is not popular in the local. But the dumplings in Hangzhou is famous, in the open field near Huan, Anhui open.
Every night at 12 business summit, said several country dialect to uncle and noodles stir stuffing, pack size of longan buns, all dressed in thin dress, little girls eat supper in the night, a fake fur, or down jacket wrapped, a thin light the same sense of humor. Because it's not like a daily diet, it doesn't look like a bag, or a diner.
I only remember the steaming hot air of steamed bun at night, the hustle and bustle, the cold and thin gas, which was filled in the night sky.
No village, a variety of local food in the city in hiding, like wearing rustic folks not too embarrassed to stroll along the streets, only with the help of a variety of popular delicacy show occasional appearances.
The recently popular "Chongqing small face" is entirely a by-product of the "China on the tip of the tongue". Now there are at least tens of thousands of people in Beijing, have they? Whether or not the alkali water, regardless of whether or not qualified for the bowl of Chili oil, all brands, like occasionally popular over platform shoes, not an instant, and instantly filled, it is ugly, but also because the popular marching forward.
In recent years, Beijing is suddenly more market, tea market, building materials market, plus clothing market booming, opened the dusty combination in various strange results before disappearing in urban and rural areas, those local food, suddenly have a rebirth of soil. When he went to the tea market, he always went to several Fujian restaurants to eat.
The tea business is 80%, Fujian; and Fujian, the Fujian are so Maliandao near the restaurant, Fujian people's taste is heavy, but not to the decoration simple, eat well.
Every time a friend and you say, I have had the most luxurious full capital Shaxian County snacks, we all stare big eyes, I think to tell some fantastic tales. However, the Shaxian County snacks is really luxurious, hundreds of tables in the courtyard, especially in summer, the endless spread, many Fujian people, speak their dialect, self-assured or supercilious ate and drank, the entertainment business during the day, night, belong to their own.
The huge cold dish counter, there are bamboo shoot, brine tofu and large intestine, the oily white lard still attached in the large intestine, eat, but is very beautiful, with a sense of style. Litchi meat, there are all kinds of seafood, where like Shaxian County snacks only scanty meat soup and peanut sauce noodles, seafood is the day from Fujian by air, razor clam fat, no sand.
Without him, Malian tea inside Fujian to eat off, you know what is the Fujian cuisine, nature is critical, so the boss can not tunnel.
Every time the number of cold dish, seafood number, like the banquet, completely broke the general pattern of Shaxian County snacks. Finally, we basically took a plate of Fujian fried rice flour as a staple food, and was in the same order as the local small city restaurant in Fujian. Next to the home, "Fuding seafood".
Among other things, a wild seaweed Fish Ball Soup, each time point. The fish than Fuzhou's time-honored is not bad, the outside is after countless beat the noodle fish, there is fresh meat stuffing, is also said to day by plane from Fujian to. The old family craft, and delicious snacks are wild seaweed, foil has become a rare sea full of dishes, the flavor of fresh gas among them.
But here the selling price is not expensive, after all the guests eat all know foundation of the home, the money is the basic profits remain in a proper sphere. Hundreds of people every night at the snack stalls, together constitute a huge "nostalgic Symphony", but there are no people say miss home, are the most ordinary people do a little business, you can do business in Beijing, not so sad, it is chastity.
Sound is hongnao and flow with the flow of the time, the fate of individuals coerced in them, or fly high or low, by luck, is a great age.
Cool summer weather, outdoor is a special kind of feeling, more people here: the people of Beijing to roast on cucumber, seafood to completely ignore the next table; Henan apparently is cheap to eat, to Tomato and Egg Soup, I give the chef regret, but the waiter or Mianbugaise orders - this is the ability to survive in the home.
There are many patterns around the building materials city. Building materials, many Fujian Cantonese, building materials shop next to the jade business, is the Henan people. So the small restaurant near that is the basic appeal of their taste.
Beijing building material city is huge, and it also radiated the surrounding areas into its own ancillary area. Near a small home decoration Center, there may be two or three chaochaoshan restaurants and three or four Henan stores. Because they were all the villagers, all the tricks were omitted, and some were called "Chaozhou and Shantou restaurant", and there were no words in front of them.
It is true that one often goes. The boss in front of support from the stove, specially now pull Changfen, and we see in the small streets of Shantou did not like what the two drawer pull changfen.
I went to Shantou, the night in the street food, saw a large number of students gathered in the Aberdeen Changfen TanQian, stall busy don't want to have to explain what category of rice rolls. Hundreds of small drawers are pulled off, a steel era atmosphere be in full swing. I am very dazed with point - delicious rice wrapped in a small amount of lean meat, the meat, it is the soul, very little, qiruoyousi, but to eat it Rice noodles skin many good reasons.
Compared with Shantou, Beijing can not stand Changfen so busy, no queuing. About the concert here is not enough, we had two helpings of beef Changfen, embonpoint Chaoshanese like boss is very happy and busy, first to stand Mijiang small drawer, and then add the egg paste with tender beef, strict in demands.
With this in mind it is beef rice rolls, the streets of Shantou several times, of course, your price doubled. Take off and the boss, a rare moment of electro-optical flint eye, the operator is hope you meet -- of course meet, whether it is the lubrication of the skin milk, or a tender beef satiety. I have finished eating solemnly thank you.
This kind of restaurant, in such a messy place, is not a person who knows, nor will it come. Because the order is the local folks, the chef behind busy doing Puning Bean Sauce Fried mustard, cranberry sauce steamed fish, in front of the cashier wearing glasses leisurely soak Phoenix Dancong there, and see what is different in the Chaozhou Shantou local no, but here is a stranger, they don't know one, too does not seem to have much interest in understanding the land. In the young, in the outside more aggressive, old again to do the plan, do this.
Take care of the front desk is a capable woman Chaoshan, yellow dyed hair, while cutting the pigtail goose wings brine, while accurately accounts, occasionally visiting Beijing for diners to be cold and curiosity polite answer: Yes, this is a pig tail, very fat, this is very sweet, sweet potato sugar, we often eat. The sweet potato sugar boil almost thick, and Chaozhou local light completely two, did not know his family characteristics, or because of the need to adapt to the people of Beijing hardcore?
There are various from the city, building materials market lonely existence. There are times in the Wangjing area found a Luzhou street of small restaurants, which completely in Beijing residents of the old district, estimated that the rent is cheap, the pattern is like Sichuan town residents who area restaurants, which are arranged very rough table, a cooking coal stove to eat outside, burning, or dry the pier. In outside the restaurant can be solved.
In the cold north, this pattern is rarely seen, and it is obviously the habit of home. With the obsolescence of the surrounding area, it was almost doubted that he was the warm town that returned to Sichuan.
It is not entirely the hometown, there are many people in Beijing, and it is also likely to have high acceptance of Sichuan cuisine, so it is popular. But the dish, is actually not very authentic, popular in Beijing hometown Cuisine: Sichuan spicy rabbit Ding is fresh meat, really do not know how to live fish; tender and delicious, seems to be seen a fish in the blood, not fully cooked, but the entrance is perfectly tender.
The blood dish fried pork livers left Sichuan township will be difficult to eat delicious, and sprinkle a lot of pepper and sugar at the end of the Cold Noodles, Sichuan Style, it is in the old city of Luzhou, in the middle of the night, listen to the river slowly breathing, sitting in the street to eat Sichuan plain enjoyment. I really don't know how this little boss has fallen here and Enron's own taste of home - a contemporary legend.
All kinds of people, here found their own stubborn sense of home. Wearing a jacket of small bosses and their women with suspicious appearance and movements, their home cat wandering out of the elderly in Beijing, we have the hunt high and low for delicious hate all guests, calmly sat down.
We do not say that the story of the Beijing office, although they are now up, but it is still inside the official gas, the food system inside, there are performances of temperament, also have artificial heart, far better than these market near a small restaurant, or lively, or bright, warm wandering in the capital of the small traders. The stomach, warm my heart this tour.
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