2017年12月14日星期四

The suit is well and bad, and the "shoulder" is very important

In a suit, the most important thing is to shoulder. It's more important to straighten the whole body and enhance the shoulder width. Learn the following classification and make a man with a "shoulder".

1. unlined shoulder suit

Non liner shoulder styles usually in summer wear suits more, simple speaking is not added at the shoulder pads, no soft lining style. This suit to wear one-piece suits, and are used in the shoulder without clipping. Do not think this kind of suit will be very difficult to live in Hold, in fact, in recent years, everyone likes the Italian style cutting. The design is relatively casual and suits weekend or casual Friday wearing.

2. Roped suit shoulder

This is a very orthodox design belongs to the Naples region of Italy, the biggest feature is the clear demarcation lines between the sleeve and shoulder, and shoulder position slightly, so that the shoulder position looks straight, is a very formal style, can give people confidence achievement.

3. Neapolitan suit shoulder

This type of suit shoulder style is very popular in recent years, in fact, it belongs to the very orthodox Italy wind, it has a distinct characteristic, is a sharp crease side shoulder, shoulder only with a thinner body, so the shoulder position relative downward, also is a match for the shirt wearing a tie. The Italy brand Isaia is the representative of Neapolitan Shoulder.

4. The Roman suit shoulder

It's a more formal one in Italy style. It emphasizes the feeling of "stronger" for your shoulders. There is no discount on the shoulder line on the sleeve side, and the position of the front collar and collar is a very clear V shape.

5. English suit shoulders

Ask what kind of formal suit, as shown below, the key to design of falling on the shoulders, let the shoulders upright, so the shoulder will relatively thick, more important is to shoulder the suit sleeve position to make clear the angle of 90 degrees, so you see a British gentleman the lines are well suit.

Further further details of how the suit shoulders fit together

The shoulder is the soul of a suit, which is important and also for a reason. You can imagine, with a general hanging suit, suit will appear as below, the whole suit is loose, no lines at all, so the shoulder of the wrong size, suit to wear to the body will not become docile.

But if we use a special wooden coat hanger and thickness to support the line sense of a suit, the shoulder size is correct, and it will also be natural when worn.

So, after wearing a suit, there are two things to be confirmed:

Is the width of the 1. wearer's shoulders and the width of the suit shoulder line consistent

The shoulder line is too large, and it looks like an early David Bowie..

What's worse is like an American football defender.

The shoulder line is too small to make you feel like you have a big head.

In general, the fitting shoulder line should be acceptable within 1/4 inches above the body's shoulder line. As for how to judge the 1/4 range, touch the hand of the arm and shoulder, and whether it is in line with the body lines and angles.

If the suit is not fit, the shoulder position will exceed your shoulder, the fabric under the armpit and the fabric at the sleeve will wrinkle. If the suit is too small, there will be a tight state at the shoulder line sleeve.

2. whether the tilt of the shoulder is in line with the suit

The question of the shoulder and the inclination is nothing more than two points.

(1) the shoulder inclination more inclined, but the angle of relatively flat shoulder pads suit

(2) your shoulder is relatively flat, but the suit (pads) more inclined shoulder

The above two conditions can be produced on one side of the shoulder, such as a shoulder, or either side of the shoulder, such as a flat shoulder. If there is a marked crease in the case of still not moving, the shoulder angle of the suit needs to be adjusted.

Finally, send a wave of suit with LOOK:

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