This week's Shanghai fashion week has ended, compared with the four fashion week, the domestic show brand awareness is poor, more people curious: why China has no decent luxury brand?
Historical reasons
Luxury is called luxury because it is scarce and irreplaceable, and the top luxury brands are accumulated after dozens of years of operation.
Western opportunity
Now the big name luxury goods are born in almost the same age, are catching up with the golden age of the times change, the founder of the unique vision created hundreds of years of history.
Louis Weedon, born in a small village near Alps, apprenticed to a parcel workshop when he was 14 years old; 16 years old, worked as a craftsman in the production of suitcases by Mr. Marechal, the famous luggage craftsman.
In 1837, the first railway was opened to traffic in France. In 1838, a European steam ship successfully crossed the Atlantic for the first time. The era of modern tourism was officially coming;
In 1853, replica Louis Vuitton online uk became the most trusted suitcase expert of Napoleon III, Eugenie, and the guests from the upper class were pouring in.
After accumulating some experience and "fans", second years replica Louis Vuitton online uk has set up its own brand, which is sold for hundreds of years.
Herm s founder Thierry Herm s is also a good time to catch up, he was doing in the saddle Germany's Rhine River, in order to later developments to choose regional development.
Because before its main customer is knight, very rich, so that they earlier for travel service, that first Herm s customers forced cheap replica Louis Vuitton handbags UK seckill.
Although the Weedon family did not catch the railway tourists, the third generation of the family was popular in the rich in the early twentieth Century. Therefore, the Herm s has successfully marketed to private car customers.
To sum up, both Hermes and replica Louis Vuitton online uk are catching up with the opportunities of the times, relying on the popularity of trains and cars, and putting their brands into the wave of tourism development.
Eastern fault
Looking back at home, the craftsmen who can compare with Europe and America in time are the only craftsmen families who make things for the Royal family.
The utensils and costumes used by the royal family can be called luxuries. But later, because of the form problem, these craftsmen family was treated as capitalism, the brand effect is nowhere to talk about.
Moreover, China's luxury culture is actually broken;
The ancient literature and art painting full time depicting luxury and pleasure of the wind, until the times of the Republic of China, still exist in the luxury lifestyle survivals of bygone ages.
However, the modern revolution Chinese, let the Royal, the royal family, the nobility exit from thousands of years of history, Chinese luxury consumption demand -- a huge a kinsman of the emperor completely disappear.
In 1949 after the founding of the PRC, a thrift, on the other hand movement, completely smashed luxury and elegant style, elegant rich gradually disappear.
After the economic system reform and opening up, the rich class appeared, elegant began to return, but the two are often separated in two consumer bodies, namely rich rather than expensive, or expensive rather than rich.
Plus the Chinese suddenly exposed to a lot of things there are not fawning plot more more serious, China luxury development road is very difficult.
Western leading
Luxury is to meet the mainstream of the mainstream culture and exist, want to have world-renowned luxury brands, the most important thing is to see their own culture can become the mainstream of the world.
Today, the world's upper mainstream culture is still dominated by the western conservative aristocracy, and frankly speaking, luxury is a Western dominated field.
Design standard
A large number of Chinese people are chasing luxury goods, and domestic design is proud of landing on the international T platform. This is the consequence of rapid economic development and stagnant culture.
The development of the material makes some people need to cater to the aesthetic. There are many designers who are exquisite in the Western luxury, and the rich class rush, a lot of reality has proved that our country is no longer a cultural exporter.
Data points out that in China, 50% of the students change their careers every year, but the garment enterprises are calling for a serious shortage of talents. But the number of people who go abroad to read design every year is increasing.
Their education and design style is mainly western style (such as Ma Lan, Saint Martin and other school Antigone,), even with Chinese most traditional elements as an auxiliary effect.
Here, or to mention "off Asia into Europe" in Japan, the last century, Lssey Miyake, Wakubo Rei, these designers have been to Europe to learn.
And put forward with the Oriental aesthetic of structuralism in European design circles also have an impact, which also for its development after a great help.
Early start, have their own unique design concept + by the European design sector to recognize, these are important factors for their success.
So, even if occasionally to please us in the Asian market, but in luxury or clothing design field, the western countries have been occupied with the right to speak.
Operation difference
In foreign countries, luxury brands behind the commercial operation generally have the backing of the big group like replica Louis Vuitton bags ukMH, tailored for its commercial operation.
In China, it has experienced years of hard struggle, and the brand of a hundred years is either nationalized or missed the golden age of brand rising.
In the end, only by increasing the price dramatically, luxury brands are forced to join the luxury list, but the high price does not mean luxury.
And the United States is an exception, and although we have listed it in the west, it is shocking that it has hardly any reputation in the world
Luxury brands.
Because the United States in front of the European countries, always in culture short a lot, even if the rich are new money and new money, the culture is not in good taste.
cultural background
Due to the different national conditions, the cultural background of China and the west is also very different, which has a great impact on the birth and consumption of luxury goods.
Western culture advocates personal value, any brand can be named and inherited by their own names; they care about personality attitude and delicate design.
The China is about collectivism and Western values contrary, individuals to the collective, everything in the collective, nations, do our ancestors passed down the virtues of thrift, etc...
Therefore, the Chinese people dare not say that advocating luxury, from childhood we were educated, simple is beautiful. Girls like to buy luxury bags and are accused of being too vain.
Bring some jewelry adorn themselves is that upstart soil is wealthy, the so-called "I love straight or natural makeup girl"
Why should we pursue external beauty and read more books? "Thousands of dollars do something bad, I don't know how to honor my parents." and so on, ideas are incompatible with the idea of luxury.
In fact, in ancient China, many people enjoy elegant, bubble tea with water is very particular about what. In fact, luxury is the essence of this "hypocritical stress", and that we are advocating the virtues of conflict.
Process difference
Apart from historical and conceptual reasons, the gap between Chinese and Western luxury goods is very large.
Artisan spirit
China has surpassed the United States, Japan and become the largest manufacturing country five years ago, but most of the products made in China are not the core technology of luxury goods.
Hermes, replica chanel bags uk, Dior... These big brands are based on high quality at the beginning, and then have their own specific style and design, another irreplaceable craft, and then to expand the scale and widely circulated.
The lack of Chinese manufacturing industry developed, but have less, China, South Wuxi Guangzhou, manufacturers are still relatively simple batch production lines, is not what the technical content of the basic work.
This is not the case in European workshops. They also know that mechanized production will greatly reduce costs, but they still insist on crafting, and they are proud of it.
And small workshops in Europe, such as Salvatore Ferragamo. As early as 1920s, each shoe style has nearly 50 sizes. Each pair of shoes are Ferragamo 10 days production time, 5 days for the production of shoe last.
The production of a total of 134 processes, participation by professional personnel and guidance, modeling, and uppers of leather cutting installation, especially the last suture finishing procedures still insist on using pure Handmade.
And these are the core competencies that other brands can't learn, apparently lacking in Chinese brands.
Original design
Original design is a more difficult thing for the domestic apparel industry, because it requires you to meet all the conditions: both sensitive to the trend of the future, and have the ambition to lead the fashion attitude.
More important in China is to abandon the "shortcut" temptation, I have too many articles written copycat wrote a fake, but most users (representing most people) attitude is actually just good, true is not important.
This is undoubtedly an impact on the original designer, how easy it is, how high the acceptance, which factory, which company will accept the new designer's three stream design?
And real brand clothes, the cost of original design, they will not be so cheap anyway. That's why Shanzhai countries can't afford luxuries!
Golden master support
Original design and protection of original design in this industry is difficult, so some of the gold bosses who go to fashion industry began to act.
Luxury group LVMH
The first thing to mention is Lovis Vuitton, Givenchy, Loewe and other big LVMH group, in order to encourage original designers, from 2014 began to run a designer competition every year (LVMH Prize)
LVMH Prize attracted a lot of people to participate in the luxury designer accreditation lineup and coveted 300 thousand euros reward.
This time the team by J.W. Anderson (Loewe), Maria Grazia Chiuri (Dior), Nicolas Ghesquiere (Louis Vuitton), Karl Lagerfeld (Fendi), Humberto Leon Carol Lim (Kenzo) and Phoebe Philo (Celine) seven and Delphine Arnault with a great reputation of fashion designer, Jean-Paul Claverie and Pierre-Yves Roussel three high-level group composition.
This lineup if not to show a talent, but hidden in the heart, is also a little small pity.
In fact, a lot of talented people have been found through the LVMH contest, such as the right red brand Jacquemus designer Simon Porte Jacquemus is the winner of the LVMH prize special award in 2015.
Jacquemus has become a "net red" brand with its unique conceptual style.
He also made good business results by taking a solid look at both of them. In 2016, he was on the list of BOF 500 Business of Fashion, the fashion business news media.
Topshop
Topshop's "NewGen Designer Awards" is one of the best-known competitions in the fashion industry.
The support program was first launched in 1993, and the designers on the funding list are also gorgeous:
Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Jonathan Saunders, J.W.Anderson, and
Simone Rocha and so on.
The focus is on the NewGen to help them, these people are not just a paper, thousands of graduates in a design that can discover these diamonds in the rough, NewGen eyes and admire the level.
Looking at the list of those who have been supported, want to sigh a sentence, if NewGen did not see them, help them show, will be the current fashion of how much regret.
JD.COM
Don't worry, envy abroad, Wuli Jingdong recently began to close to the fashion circle.
First this year's New York fashion week, Jingdong joined the internationally renowned designer Lin Nengping (Phillip Lim), held the 3.1 Philip Lim2018 spring and summer show;
The brand has a good reputation in the industry, has a lot of business income, has become a mature American designer brand, is also well-known in the Chinese market.
Then, in London fashion, Zhou Jingdong has joined hands with Mary Katratzou and HuishanZhang to hold the big show of 2018 series of ready-made clothes.
Zhang Huishan, the founder of HuishanZhang, has just been elected to the list of Business of Fashion (BOF), a member of the top 500 global fashion leaders of the year. The fashion impact of the young designer from Shandong, Qingdao, is evident.
In addition, in the Shanghai fashion week, Jingdong in addition to direct domineering become the Shanghai fashion week annual works released official joint partners;
Also with the original designer brand ZHANG SHUAI and ALL COMESFROM NOTHING (referred to as ACFN) heavy debut, bringing two wonderful finale show.
Deeply loved star designer name ZHANG SHUAI haute couture brand (Zhang Shuai) with "heart" as the theme, "love the weekend", "casual", "freedom" for the idea, as we show independent female image is not the same.
The Shanghai fashion Zhou Jingdong also joined the ACFN designer Eva Yiwei Xu (Xu Yiwei) who went to New York fashion week, to bring ALL COMES FROMNOTHING18 spring and summer series "Oriental Poppy"".
Jingdong these big fashion movement is also hope that through the support of the original design strength, dig out the original designer with high quality market potential.
At present, the Jingdong has welcomed hundreds of independent brand designer and integrated shops, big events after this investment is farfetch another fashionable Chinese a feeling of exaltation upon fulfillment!
After all, every Chinese people really want to have their own luxury brands, representing the Chinese culture! So called, God made the world, the rest thing was made in China.
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