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For China male dress style, fashion commentators always much criticism, however, a fact that can not be ignored is that more and more China men started to pay attention to fashion of dress collocation, to highlight the personality and taste of the high-end products reported. Senior European custom shoes brands in recent years, the rise in the China market, from a unique perspective reflects this trend.
The "grand annals" the depth of investigation of the three representative of the European men's brand Berluti, set Santoni and Corthay, see what the magic power to let these hundreds of million of expensive shoes can still be a new generation of consumers.
Shoe master: high set men's brand of a gilded signboard
The price of expensive traditional custom shoes, handmade value contains every shoe division, a shoe masters is the brand of a gilded signboard.
Since the founding of the Berluti brand in 1895, Italy shoemaker Alessandro Berluti's family has been one of Europe's most famous shoemaker family, almost every head is a good shoemaker. The fourth head, and also the current head of the Olga Berluti, is the world's rare shoemaker. Originally the traditional parents hope that Olga will be able to find a good man married, but in a chance, she made shoes by famous pop artist Andy Warhol's favor, then formally embarked on the road to become a cobbler, this male dominated industry, one of the most famous shoe maker master.
Above: Berluti current head of the current head of the Olga Berluti
What's interesting is that Corthay's founder, Pierre Corthay, was also Berluti's shoe maker. In 1984, Pierre Corthay has come to the British men's custom brand John Lobb and French men's custom brand Berluti for 6 years and then in 1990 founded the senior men's custom brand Corthay. In 2009, Pierre Corthay was awarded the French master of Art (Ma D art tre lies ") is still the only one title, was awarded the title of the men's shoemaker.
Image above: Corthay brand founder Pierre Corthay
In Berluti, Corthay, Santoni three high-end shoes brand of the current head of the door, the only did not become a shoe-making division is Santoni's current CEO Giuseppe Santoni. "I have more than 400 pairs of shoes on my own. I'm not too stingy with my shoes.". But I can't draw. If I draw a pen, the people around me will laugh at me. "Although not a shoe division, but grew up with his father in the factory up Giuseppe Santoni on the shoe making process all knows," I know all the process, with the eyes can distinguish a pair of shoes did wrong. If you want to lead a company, you have to know that, or else people will not take you. "To become the footwear division, father Andrea Santoni hope that he can help the brand to expand the market, therefore, from 1987 into the company of the moment, Giuseppe Santoni has a duty for the brand expansion of new markets. Mainland China is one of the new markets that Giuseppe Santoni has opened up for its brand.
Above: Santoni brand CEO, Giuseppe, Santoni, and father Andrea Santoni
High set men's special skills: customized
In the past two years, fashion hot words, besides "sports leisure", still have "customization"".
Berluti and Corthay two senior French men's custom brand independent stores in Beijing SKP mall next to open. Berluti store design style calm, Corthay overall color is bright and lively. From the brand age, Corthay founded in 1895, Berluti young nearly one hundred years old, but the two have "custom" as their special skills.
Customization can be said to be the custom of these high quality shoes custom brands. Last month, Berluti and Corthay were just flying China foot division for the customer need to customize the size measurement, then there is a try on the adjustment, and then to make shoes, the entire production cycle takes about half a year, starting at about 5-6 million yuan. Even if the cycle is very long, but in order to ensure quality, the number of shoe-making divisions of each brand will not increase indefinitely. Such as Corthay, in only about 25 of global Volume 15 shoemaker, foot division, each pair of custom shoes are in Paris's workshop, produced by the 25 outstanding shoemaker, using Goodyear shoe traditional method, the production process is very complex.
Corthay CEO Xavier De Royere has an interesting observation: "on the choice of color, compared to Chinese male consumers love to buy colorful shoes, under the European and North American consumers are also some shy. "
"Although the fashion industry in Europe and North America developed much earlier, Chinese men are changing much more quickly in fashion than in other markets," he said. "Personalization is becoming a new sign of Chinese men.". For example, Corthay entered China when not what people know, people will look for the product directly into the store consumption, understand fashion expert and challenging spirit Chinese men are more willing to try new things. "
Let customers turn back the magic weapon: vamp color transfer and free maintenance
In addition to the full range of customized, Corthay has a more cost-effective "semi custom service", is based on color adjustment into the shoes, uppers can change the color, style, leather, shoe lining and sole color, even many details including shoes, shoes, etc. are also edging eyes according to the individual freedom of collocation and adjustment. Today, this "semi custom" shoe has become one of the best shoes sold in the shop's mouth.
Corthay Beijing stores a door, there is a display table of various bottles, according to the clerk, this is where do shoe color change, color change at any time there are in store for guest service division. The color card on the changing stage has no bright colors such as wine, red, purple and pink. The clerk points to the color card in his hand. "This is only part of it. We can make a lot of color.". Customers choose what colors have, and sometimes our professional master may feel that this collocation is not good, but the guests will like it very much".
Today a number of senior footwear brand custom is in the use of the Patina dyeing process, is actually a female head of Olga Berluti Berluti's invention, the dyeing process so that consumers have unlimited personalized color choice, although the purchase of Berluti type shoe brush color customers can also enjoy a free turning opportunity but unlike Corthay, color change has become a unique selling point that brand.
In addition to color, bespoke shoes maintenance service is standard in the Berluti store, a man carrying a loaded 7, 8 pairs of shoes bag to store maintenance, while waiting in the store to try the new Corthay; turn color shop also put a few double to maintenance shoes, opinion, this way is not only to allow customers to experience the VIP service, but also allow customers to become repeat customers the best magic.
Advance with the! High shoes are sold from the white shoes"
In these hand made custom shoes famous brand stores, we also saw the last two years, unusually popular "white shoes", and some even placed in a very clear window position.
"In 1998, when we started to make sports shoes, my father is not happy, even my mother is, how do they say Santoni shoes, talk about doing sports shoes, a footwear division of Santoni with a smile." "our sports shoes are very good quality, the use of leather like classic leather shoes, so now my father every day wear, wear it to go home, can stretch children walk 5 kilometers. "
The introduction of sports casual shoes to meet the needs of high net worth groups for sports, leisure and wind (athleisuire) collocation is one of the brand's efforts to meet the needs of customers in the new era. The traditional manual focus on advanced customization brand, early to know with the change of consumer demand and more diversified, the design and layout of the brand products have been adjusted, even if consumers start may not adapt this brand.
Let the female customers have grass shoes brands
"Before, there were female customers specially set the trumpet shoes, and if the girls feet larger, you can also buy directly", Berluti wearing their own products introduced such a saleswoman. Also attracted female customers, as well as Corthay next to the store. Perhaps because the upper design more vivid colors, according to staff, many couples will set up a minimum number of shoes, men's shoes can even do 35 yards.
Perhaps the brand also observed female customers to buy men's shoes phenomenon, Berluti shop and we said: the winter of this year will launch brand shoes and clothing.
And Italy senior shoe custom brand Santoni has opened women's shoes line. In February, Santoni also worked with designer Marco Zanini to launch the Santoni Edited by Marco Zanini for men's and women's clothing".
Vigorously expand the international market
In China, there are a number of international advanced custom footwear brands that have opened stores in China, such as John, Lobb and Edward Green in the uk. Without exception, most of these brands believe that the Chinese market and Chinese consumers are mature enough to understand the quality and value of the brand.
"Corthay first opened two stores in Hongkong, and later with the Beijing SKP store, more and more people begin to buy the shoes, because the mainland prices lower, there are a lot of customers in Hongkong came here to buy" Corthay Beijing store clerk said.
Open up new markets, enhance brand awareness, each family has different ways of playing. Santoni and Corthay, which operate independently, have many examples of cooperation with other luxury brands.
Lanvin, replica Dior bags uk, Yamamoto Teruji (Yohji Yamamoto) and other brand production only customized shoes, help "90" after the young brand Corthay to consolidate luxury positioning and image, and with Yamamoto Teruji's cooperation, more help the brand successfully entered the Japanese market.
Santoni also has cooperation with Mercedes AMG group, Swiss watch brand IWC, Schaffausen and Italy Textile Group RUBELLI. At present, the company is still an independent family, Santoni has nearly 500 employees, in 2015 the brand turnover of more than 55 million euros.
Above: Rubelli precious material of the interpretation of the Santoni le fu shoes, ballet shoes
After the Second World War, the economic recovery period, began to accelerate the pace of social life, Berluti third president Talbinio Berluti decided to take advantage of this opportunity to bring Berluti into the international market, and in 1959 launched a series of finished shoes. Similarly, the use of exquisite handicrafts made of finished shoes, not only for consumers to enter the shop, that is, without waiting, and the price closer to the people, attracted a large number of young consumers, especially young artists have been favored.
In 1993, cheap replica Louis Vuitton handbags UKMH Group acquired the family business of Berluti, after a long period of time after 2011, a low-key stealth LVMH group, Prince Antoine Arnault was appointed as the brand CEO, Berluti gradually entered the fast track of development. In the launch of a new product line's series, has hired former Z Zegna designer Alessandro Sartori and Karl Lagerfeld appointed as his successor laobiye designer Haider Ackermann served as creative director of the brand, Berluti will expect from a luxury men's brand has gradually developed into a luxury lifestyle brand". In 2012 Berluti launched the first high set men series; in June of the same year, LVMH Group acquired the French veteran senior men's custom brand Arnys, help the development of Berluti business men's custom tailor the Arnys production process and a dozen experienced.
Berluti's latest financial data show that in 2016 about 150 million euros, although still a loss of about 50 million euros, but the loss has begun narrowing. About half of men's business is still business accounted for about Berluti, but Antoine Arnault pointed out last year, Berluti has been expanding category and the global layout of the stores, sales revenue from 2011 Alessandro Sartori joined the brand's 30 million euros rose to more than one hundred million euros. "This has nothing to do with cheap replica Louis Vuitton handbags UKMH's strong investment. According to analysts, LVMH has invested 1~1.5 billion euros in Berluti over the past five years.
Interesting Berluti showcase:
| photograph: Bloomberg, the brand's official website, menshoessite.com, Tumblr
| editor: Elisa
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