When it comes to tailored suits, do you think so?:
It belongs only to high places, and it has nothing to do with ordinary people;
It is a symbol of the elite, it has nothing to do with our people;
It's old Keller's standard, it doesn't matter to us young people.
And the truth is just the opposite.
No one, more than a young, ordinary junior professional players, more suitable for customized suits.
Why /
Young people, why do you need a suit
Modern suit is recognized as the official dress around the world, one hundred years have not changed. What does this mean? It represents "dignity and dignity" has never changed.
In the west, the boy's first lesson in life is the importance of personal image, even in the full meal can not eat the "Great Depression" period is also true. Because parents believe that this is a great way for their future job search.
And now? "The first impression" of this iron law in recruitment did not waver, the suit as office occupation, many companies were written in the "code of conduct".
Compared to the old guns in the workplace, young people are more urgent need a set of tailored suits.
First of all, the most direct reason is that the right suit can make you tall and straight, full of spirit. This is the suit's unique charm as a suit - the opposite of a cheap suit.
Young John Kennedy
The Silicon Valley nerds are cute, but they should be well dressed in suits.
Second, a customized sense of ritual can help you prepare yourself from your heart. It's like the lyrics: "put your hair in the shape of an adult and put on a smart suit.".
Even if you are not a childish face
Third, it can make the boss think you ready. Otherwise, he is very easy to think, "a person who is not serious about himself, how can we take seriously the work? A person who is not a good person, how to carry out a project to run a company? "
Once again, your grade will earn you respect. Dressed in a suit of tailored suit, when someone asks whether it is a Dunhill or a Zegna, tell him what the name of your tailor's name must be:
The boy is not simple.
Finally, in a sense, in fact, more affordable custom suit. In the twenties, the cash strapped, there is no need to customize the suit? The answer, of course, is yes.
Speaking of the "young" is only "cheap" this view, just one month's wages, beg to differ, with a set of forty or fifty years to wear suit (neither break is not out of date), where the sale is not worthwhile?
You can do this:
Wear like this:
Of course, the premise is to keep body (laugh)
What /
So, what exactly is a custom suit?
And for you, is the custom. Not only is "to make it more fit, but it is how to achieve the way you want, how to decorate your body and how to enhance your temperament, this is the custom, the difference is the" orthodox bespoke custom "and" fashionable semi custom "biggest.
Orthodox bespoke customization is like this:
1 orthodox bespoke suit shop, the master will communicate with the guests dress requirements, select fabrics, to confirm the style, volume.
The amount of the body is not only the waist, chest and other data acquisition, master volume but also through this step grasp the wearer's clothing habits, body movements, body, or even walk, in order to make either action or still can completely comfortable suit, not just standing there pose only good-looking.
2 is the next cut.
There are two ways to cut Bespoke:
One is to use the cardboard left by the guests to slightly modify the details of the cutting;
The utility model relates to a plate which is not made, and the cutting piece is directly drawn on the cloth according to the quantity of the body of each time of the guest.
It is important to note that the board is not "version", "no formal suit custom version of this concept, the Italy version, the popular British version is pipelining by large-scale use later, because of the need of these standard" version "to mass production.
Therefore, all mentioned version of the custom shop is not bespoke.
3 after clipping, is made to the guests first try on the hair coat.
But we often see that clothing is covered with white Ding, side sleeves, semi finished side without sleeves, it is easy to adjust the sleeve, sleeve cage and other details.
4 a week after the guests to the store to try again for the second time to try clothes piliform.
At this time, the master will carefully confirm every detail, to remove the hair coat again, adjusting the position, making the guests suit. It takes one to two weeks to tailor a suit, because the orthodox bespoke is handmade and the time is not compressed.
Therefore, do not wear in the second day, the day before the custom, it is not to give you a "convenient", it is a ritual.
Stylish semi custom is like this:
"Semi custom" is called "set", is to use the existing version (English version of what type, Italian version, Korean version and so on) try, directly modify discretion to try on clothes in the mark, and then select the appropriate material, modified to fit.
The volume of the method is simple and quick to save the cost, and also has the physical and material selection steps, to meet the custom experience. Saville street also has a number of shops outside the bespoke service to provide the volume of services.
You can choose as needed, but you need to know that this is not bespoke.
Many small houses in the tailor shop, clearly do is semi custom, but as bespoke can confuse the public.
Yu Jia recommended bespoke, semi custom like to buy a 16G iPhone as tasteless. Bespoke is not only a piece of clothing, but also can use a lifetime collection, like a Patek Philippe watch or MontBlanc leather.
Remember BBC filmed a documentary about Savile Row, one of which was very touching, a British man said he was showing several sets of suits and safari jackets, and these are his father was wearing, died after leaving him, but he still wears.
Attention Yaqu (public No. ID:caixin-enjoy) and reply back the word "BBC", won the documentary resources
If your dad left you such a suit, you can wear it now
How /
What do you want to do before you choose a custom shop?
But now, there are not many real bespoke, every one is beyond count. So, looking for a reliable tailor shop is not easy, in order to take less detours, you need to do some homework.
Custom does not necessarily have to choose expensive fabrics
Some clothes shop on the recommendation of a valuable fabric. In fact, a suit of profits is the highest fabric (tell the secret pressure a little big), so don't rely on the clerk recommended your needs, is the only reason decided to custom suit every part.
Fabric selection, if you do not need a special luxury suit to attend special occasions, the general fabric is enough.
Let's say that the proportion and tailoring is greater than the fabric, a fabric but the general proportion of the perfect suit is still fine, but a proportion of the gold fabric suit is still a waste.
Of course, chemical fiber fabric is not within the scope of our discussion.
If you want to know more about the fabric, attention, Yaqu (public No. ID:caixin-enjoy) and reply keywords "fabric" reading.
Store service is very important to the inspection criteria
If a custom shop doesn't do a good job, you can't expect him to do your job.
The so-called custom, is to buy services, not simply to buy a dress, but to see if you can help you adjust to what extent?
Some chicken custom shop two times to change bad, you will be able to say that you can only do this level - and a professional custom store will never say that the problem of the size of the guests. An excellent craftsman, who can make all the clothes for them.
Your monthly salary is a reasonable price for a tailored suit
So how much is it reasonable to spend on a custom suit? The answer is, your monthly salary. Less on the quality of discount, more is not worth. This standard, put fifty years ago is the industry rules, then a suit of the price is almost two silver dollars.
Pay attention to the body when the test
The first time you try to wear hair clothes, you must choose the fabric -- if it is not, it is certainly not bespoke, but a set of code fitting. Bespoke must be a single cut to do, of course, is your own choice of fabric, otherwise there must be a problem.
Fit standard is nice and comfortable
There are several simple criteria for "fit":
Shoulder - with the shoulders against the wall, there is excess fabric wrinkle is a big shoulder.
Waist - there is a space between the body and the clothes, so you can move freely.
Long sleeve clothes and clothing long sleeve can cover the hips, exposing the inside of the shirt sleeves 2-3 cm.
Yes, this picture is coming (again)
Anyway, it seems to you straight, body good, move slightly bound, but still comfortable is not tight. No need to adhere to the rules, the most important to look comfortable.
To understand the difference between general anesthesia and adhesive lining
Suit lining is very important. The clothes suit usually uses the adhesive lining, the adhesive lining through the machine hot pressing will the lining cloth and the suit face cloth Union, the cost is low, is suitable for the industrial machine production, but the quality is poor, the life is short, easy to blister.
The bespoke is used in general anesthesia, general anesthesia is a non adhesive old lining, so must be through the needle suture. The lining of the general anesthesia life is very long, much higher than the surface of the wear resistance, wear a few decades no problem, but the shape of flexible and meticulous, good stereotypes.
You need to choose, but you need to know why you're paying.
Where /
A guide to treasure hunting and demining in custom suits
The following, to recommend and exclude Yu Jia know custom shop, which can be said to be the most important part of the whole content, and all the results of the field survey considerations.
Recommend these
The orthodox shop
Dave 's Custom Tailoring
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Price: entry-level suit about 7000 yuan, a small white house wages almost a month.
Price assumes.
Address:
Shanghai Wuyuan road 288 Lane 1 (near Yongfu Road)
Beijing shop Kerry Center Mall basement B04 unit (Guanghua Road, No. 1)
| Yaqu public number caixin-enjoy
It is no exaggeration to say, do bespoke, Shanghai on two, Dave 's and w.w.chan, but Dave' s for a long time, Shanghai's Chan in a lot of places have reference Dave 's component.
Domestic bespoke, Dave 's can be said to be one of the most recommended. The old man is a Taiwanese, in 60s to enter the Vietnam War to the United States to start a suit, has now done a more than and 50 year suit.
Around 2000, the old man in the Ministry of foreign affairs, a plan for the introduction of talent for diplomats to do clothes, has been left in the mainland - it is said that the mainland is not the reason for the big tailor. In my opinion, I can't keep pace with the old man.
Dave 's bears the old gentleman
The old man's craft since Needless to say, he is the most powerful, or the proportion of moderation and aesthetic vision. In the final analysis, the process is dead, you can make up for, and aesthetic is alive, can not learn. A suit looks good, proportion and aesthetic play a decisive factor.
The old gentleman is a cultural person, he knows the United States, also can show the United States, this is the bone of a suit shop, a lot of clothes shop is only skin, no bone.
Beijing, Shanghai has a shop, fabric complete, attentive service, will not be recommended chaos, partial British style, relatively calm, suitable for young people and business elite workplace.
Stylish semi custom shop
Suitsupply
Price: entry-level suit about 3000 yuan, which can be said that the brand is a premium of $1000.
The price. You can feel.
Shanghai Anfu Road No. 169
Beijing Parkview green L2-10
Holland's young brands, semi custom services, there are clothing (clothing can also be modified). Smart suit game player, should not have this brand do not know, in recent years is very rapid expansion, marketing was very beautiful, whether film, film, fashion shops or products are quite unified visual style.
Suitsupply eye-catching advertising
Products on the general, adhesive lining, the mainland factory assembly line, the quality of casual wear can also be. The picture is more beautiful than the upper body, in the visual.
Convenient independent custom shop
Indochino
Price: 3000 yuan (excluding tax)
The price you can feel it.
Official website: www.indochino.com
North America (emphasis on the country, because the post will also mention) online men's custom service brand. You can choose the style and the fabric on the website, and then according to the site of the volume of the tutorial, their own good size and then sent to the background, according to the size of your measurements to do your clothes.
This way you win in convenient, even the doors are not, have to endure a stranger in your body on bibihuahua.
These are not recommended
Mine only said, do not say the brand, please self condemnation, lenovo.
The old hard new store
This shop, usually ten years ago the state-owned suit shop, ten years ago do not suit, "dress township entrepreneurs" half the responsibility to blame them, but now is by "long history" to tell a story.
For so many years, the level is not raised, showmanship tactics don't be a lot last year, also out of what is a professor with a Korean version of a suit, it is drunk. The product is expensive, and is completely rustic, consumption upgrade before the domestic level.
I don't want to put second more in this picture......
Domestic Internet Custom Shop
In recent years, the emergence of a lot of this "home custom" - no layman knowledgeable about as long as a factory, spent two days to teach a "volume division", the "men's brand" can be opened, even appearance fees are free, door-to-door.
If you have to choose what autonomy, online customization, please choose the foreign electricity supplier website.
Most China into "online customization" in this industry, basically are fancy "online", and non custom, plainly they come and sincerely do not suit, just fancy with the so-called "Internet" with the traditional craft, attempting to subvert the industry.
Can not subvert I do not know, I know is that these aesthetic concerns do not do things out of the layman, it is not recommended.
Therefore, careful selection of all James "Internet" three characters of the handicraft industry, if you really are convenient or to experience online, find abroad, at least is the people's traditional suit, they know how to make it beautiful.
Finally, we must again, don't be mistaken for custom suits has a high threshold, need more high status, more money
It should be with you step by step to get these things.
Interactive topics:
If you can choose, what kind of clothes do you want to wear to work?
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