2017年12月18日星期一

H& of cattle X; M, another hundred year cowboy factory

Why does it fall?

Just because it's too slow?

As early as October, the United States International Textile Group (International Textile Group) announced that its located in North Carolina, Cone Mills White Oak of Greensboro, Plant, will stop production in December 31st this year.

What is White Oak Plant?

Once, it is a great factory which affects the development process of the world cowboy culture. With a long history of 112 years, it was once the largest cowboy fabric factory in the world. It co worked with Levi's, Lee, Wrangler and other famous Jeans Brands to launch countless classic products. It is an integral part of American cowboy history. A senior cowboy enthusiast, sure to have jeans with a White Oak label.

Later, it carried all kinds of natural disasters and economic crisis and became the only factory in the United States producing selvedge denim (Denim / chear DENIM).

Now, after this month, it will close. There will be no American Red Jean in the future.

Follow the lens of ACL first

Go to the factory and look at it

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The video comes from A Continuous Lean

The classic old factory, which has a history of 112 years,

Eventually failed to escape the fate of the door

In 1891, the Moses and Ceasar Cone two brothers co founded Cone Denim. In 1902, the factory has been unable to meet the production demand, the brothers borrowed $600 thousand to buy a piece of land in the northeastern part of the Greensboro, building new factories. In April 1905, White Oak Plant was formally put into operation.

3 years later, Cone Denim became the world's largest supplier of cowboy fabrics. At the peak, White Oak covers an area of 1 million 600 thousand square feet, with up to 2500 workers.

White Oak in 1907

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The most famous brand of White Oak is Levi's.

Initially, the fabric of Levi's 501 was supplied by Amoskeag. In pursuit of better quality (plus Amoskeag's failure), Levi's gained the right to use Shrink-to-Fit (Selvage) fabric from Cone Denim in 1915. In 1922, White Oak became the exclusive fabric supplier for 501 XX, and XX was the number of the exclusive fabric.

It is worth noting that the cooperation is not a contract, it is purely oral agreement between the two parties.

In 2015, Levi's Vintage launched a Clothing called "The Golden Handshake" series, to commemorate both a gentleman's agreement lasted 100th anniversary (although the middle once Levi's moving production abroad.).

In addition to cheap replica Louis Vuitton handbags UKC, jeans brands such as Tellason, RGT, Nudie Jeans and Baldwin, the denim fabric produced by White Oak is also used to make tannins.

In the 2016 Summer Olympics, Ralph Lauren built a team suit for the American national team, and the white jeans worn by the athletes came from the White Oak.

A red and blue two ear edges

The color of the national flag in the United States

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White Oak used the 1940s American Draper x3fly shuttle loom. The old narrow shuttle loom knitted the corresponding denim fabrics of all ages. This original flavor is the reason why many retro cowboy enthusiasts regard it as a classic.

At the same time, White Oak is also the site of the Cone Denim product research and development center, with advanced technology and equipment.

In 2015, when Cone Mills celebrated the White Oak110 birthday, she also played the slogan of "Still made in America" to express their pride as the only manufacturer of hemming denim in the United States.

It would have been two years, and the only pride, after all, was not able to sustain it.

The United States is committed to the promotion of manufacturing products A founder Michael Williams Continuous Lean White Oak called national tragedy (closed national tragedy) ", he believed that history can not be changed, once the factory closed, means that Americans will lose another identity symbol.

Cowboy culture was born in the United States, and jeans are an important label for American culture. In the development process of American cowboy history, white oak has played a great role in promoting the development of the American cowboy history. It lost, on behalf of the United States denim fabric manufacturing industry did not fall, is a microcosm of the traditional manufacturing industry declining. As Michael Williams says, once the factory closes, it means Americans will lose another symbol of identity.

Who is this Liaodao hundred years jeans factory?

Is "slow" in this age, is it really not?

The old narrow woven out of cloth is very narrow, efficiency is not as good as new machines, this "slow" in the fancier mind, are precious. But in the market environment of low cost and high output, this "slow" is the original sin of closing the door of White Oak.

Is it time to close the door?

Private Holdings Company capitalists said, do not make money to get out.

Last October, International Textile Group, the parent company of Cone Mills, was bought by private Holdings Company Platinum Equity.

The most famous PlatinumEquity company in the industry is to cut off the operation means of raising profits by high cost, and then transfer the company at a more objective price.

At that time, people in the industry pointed out that in the case of ITG losing money for a long time, Platinum Equity is hard to admit that White Oak has such a high input and low output factory that it is only a matter of time sooner or later that the layoffs or the whole is cut down.

Maybe someone will ask, it feels like you can often see the Cowboy brand launch the white oak product. Is it really not making money?

And we have the same doubts and Tellason managers, in their own official website said that a few months ago, that he is the fourth largest customers of Wo, they are surprised.

The big surprise came a few months ago when welearned that we

Fewer and fewer brands want to buy this slowly made jeans, and orders are decreasing, and PlatinumEquity can only shut it off.

Is it time to close the door?

The made in USA brand that can't hold up says I can do it, and I'm very helpless.

Data show that around 1960, 95% of the clothing in the US market was produced locally, but today the figure is only 3% and 97% is outsourced to developing countries.

The NAFTA, which came into force in 1994, has a significant impact on the domestic textile industry. The low cost Mexico has become the destination of industrial transfer. After a series of policies, the textile industry was transferred to Asia. Cone mills also conform to this trend, one after another in Mexico and Jiaxing Chinese factory.

What does it mean to outsource to the developing countries? Lower production costs.

What does the lower cost of production mean? Higher profit margins and stronger market competitiveness.

It is becoming more and more difficult to make 100% American - made products (from raw materials to production), and many brands have been forced to give up the label.

American brands such as Unis New York, Outlier, which used to be proud of made in USA, are now working in Portuguese.

Although Tellason said that the White Oak denim they ordered was sufficient to maintain production in 2018. But after that, their cowboy fabric can only be imported from Japan.

Is it time to close the door?

The consumer who enjoys fast fashion and convenience says it has something to do with me.

What is the essence of global production? Where is the low cost of production where factory.

When China's production cost is low, a large number of orders come in. When the production cost of China increases year by year, orders will flow to lower Vietnam, Burma and Bangladesh.

The most typical of them is H M, Zara and other fast fashion brands.

Tellason's straight jeans are priced at 230 yuan (1520 yuan). Compared with 29.99 yuan (198 yuan), they can buy a pair of straight jeans at H M. The choice of most consumers, of course, is the latter.

What the local environment is polluted, no matter what the brand is, no matter what the consumers can't see, what the local labor is squeezed, the brand is ignored, the consumers can't see, the quality of the product is bad, and the brand can be selectively blinded when it is packaged at a low price.

When people and resources in one place are squeezed out, the capital will move to the next place. To be white, White Oak is also the victim of the migration, although it has been carried out once and again.

Consumerism prevails and fashion is booming. You seem to have a lot of clothes, but have not become richer and richer, but have saved more and more rubbish.

Consumers can never see it, in this game, the only rich, only fast brand owners.

Documentary "The Ture Cost"

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Once readers said in the background, "cicada City advocates 2000 flowers to buy a piece of clothes that can wear for 10 years, but doesn't advocate spending 200 yuan a year to buy new ones for 10 years. Is that a contradiction?

2000 pieces of clothing for 10 years, every year as long as 200 pieces can enjoy good fabric, good cutting, good quality.

2000 dollars for 10 years 200 pieces of clothes, it looks like you have 10 pieces of clothes, in fact, everything you buy is singled out from consumer brands to sell it to you in the waste time and energy is spent, grade do not grow!

Slow, this is not supposed to be, but this time is over the pursuit of profit and speed, it can only be sacrificed by short - eyed people.

Don't slow the good stuff, was quickly swept away the tide, to regret......

"Slow down, do you think?"

Point out or leave a message, choose one to tell me.

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